Louis tavern

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Fifteen years ago, a remarkably uncomfortable and occasionally glorious Outward Bound sailing trip left our author shivering with cold, sore from rowing . . . and perversely, forever in love with boating and the Bay. This summer, Levelle, now managing editor of Chesapeake Bay Magazine, tracked down a fellow Outward Bounder and persuaded her to help retrace that life-altering journey. This time it was sweltering, stormy and, yes, still glorious.

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